The New York-based designer, Pamella Roland, has created custom looks for powerhouse women that range from Angela Bassett and Patricia Clarkson to Kristin Chenoweth and Vanessa Williams. For PROVOKED, Roland offers her thoughts on why she welcomes every woman into her atelier and the secrets of her success.

Pamella Roland is a Red-Carpet Icon in Hollywood Fashion

Backstage before the debut of her collection at New York Fashion Week, Pamella Roland is surrounded by what can best be described as controlled chaos: Makeup artists performing last-minute touch ups, a high-end jeweler providing the diamonds that will accent Roland’s sophisticated designs, and a stage manager working to corral the dressed models into the order that aligns with the collection’s run of show. Amid the bustle, Roland looks calm and confident, assured that every detail is handled as she chats with VIPs who have stopped by to say hello.

That positivity and sense of aplomb come with years of trusting your team, as well as yourself, in planning a successful outcome. In Roland’s case, that’s evident in every collection and every custom design. Since she founded her label in 2002, Roland has excelled at crafting collections that not only exude elegance and high design—they also blend upscale details and an undeniable wearability. Those latter qualities are among the reasons she is sought after by a variety of actresses who exemplify power and style in equal measure: Angela Bassett, Patricia Clarkson, Kelli O’Hara, Kristin Chenoweth, and Geena Davis, to name just a few.

Why Celebrities Love Pamella Roland’s Custom Designs

For the just-wrapped 2025 awards season, Clarkson was among the A-list stars wearing Roland’s designs—alongside Maria Bakalova, Janelle James, and Yvonne Orji—that beautifully suited each woman’s style and individuality. Vanessa Williams is also a longtime client, a key reason the actress requested Roland’s designs as her costumes for the London run of the musical version of The Devil Wears Prada, in which Williams plays the fierce and stylish Miranda Priestley.

In these and other high-wattage dressing moments, Roland demonstrates that she indeed excels at designing for women of every age and every body type, eschewing the practice of other labels to set a narrow window of the “type” of woman they choose to dress and represent their label. That decision extends to Roland’s confidence in her work—that she welcomes every woman who desires to wear her designs, assured she will also make them feel confident, powerful, and beautiful. As the 2025 awards season was about to conclude, Roland agreed to answer a variety of questions about her design process, custom looks, and where we might find her on an awards night.

The Secret to a Perfect Red Carpet Look

Laurie Brookins: I’d love to get a sense of what the season is like for you when you’re working on one or more looks to be seen on a red carpet, while also producing a fall collection that’s about to hit the runway. How are you balancing a workroom in the midst of creating a high-design collection while also crafting custom looks for women on high-profile red carpets?

Pamella Roland: A strong team that communicates effectively and collaborates well is essential for balancing our collection work with custom requests. When our PR team receives a special request from a celebrity’s team, PR coordinates with the design team to explore feasible design options within the given timeframe. Once both our team and the celebrity’s team agree on a design, we begin the production process, which tends to run smoothly.

LB: Speaking of custom, how would you describe your relationship with actresses and their stylists, and the conversations and processes you’re engaging in when creating an exclusive design for them?

PR: Each star and their team represent a unique experience and relationship. Sometimes clients select specific looks from our previous collections, requesting alterations in details or fabrics. Other times they desire something entirely new. We conduct as many fittings as possible to ensure the fit meets our standards; however, there are instances where time constraints prevent a fitting, in which case we work with the measurements provided in advance.

LB: You excel in creating looks for many powerful women in Hollywood: Angela Bassett, Kim Cattrall, Halle Berry, and Eva Longoria, among them. Why do you believe these amazing A-list women seek you out for a red carpet look?

PR: These women understand who our customer is and embody the power, elegance, and glamour that define the Pamella Roland woman. Our designs cater to individuals who wish to make a grand entrance when they enter a room. Stars also come to us because of our consistent fit, which has become our signature.

How Every Woman Can Feel Like a Star

LB: For women who perhaps aren’t attending the Oscars, but any event where they still want to feel like a star, what are the details and elements you believe they should look for—and are key to many of your designs—so they can select something that will make them feel like it’s perhaps their Oscar night after all?

PR: It’s important to choose silhouettes that make you feel confident. Once you identify what fits well and makes you feel your best, you can easily walk into any boutique and refine your options. My best advice is to find a reliable tailor. A skilled tailor can customize any piece of clothing to make it look as if it was made just for you.

LB: Which pieces from your just-released fall 2025 collection also play into this idea, and perhaps were not only your favorites from these collections, but also truly exemplify the DNA of your label?

PR: Our fall 2025 collection showcases two gowns that embody our signature elegance and reverence for classic Hollywood glamour. Our ruby floral jacquard one-shoulder gown exudes sophistication, while our white crepe gown with black embroidery and a black puff cape adds a touch of drama. Both styles offer versatility, enabling you to experiment with silhouettes to find what best suits your body. The one-shoulder floral jacquard gown is slightly more daring, while the black and white gown features a detachable cape that can be draped over your arms, if desired.

LB: A key to your popularity is that you’re elevating women who are often marginalized by the fashion industry—which is to say, women over the age of 50 and who are perhaps not a size 0—and making them look fabulous. What can you tell me about the value of these women and why you’re proud to dress them and have them represent your brand on a red carpet?

PR: We welcome every woman into the world of Pamella Roland, ensuring the voices of marginalized individuals are always heard. These women, like anyone else, want to feel special, and we ensure everyone is treated with equal care and attention. We listen to what they desire in a look and what makes them feel most confident.

LB: I’m imagining that these incredible women also mirror your clients in many ways. How might that be on your mind as you’re designing your collection vs. designing a custom look for a red carpet?

PR: When creating a custom look, we consider any notes from the client and stylist. However, when developing a collection, we rely on our sales team to inform us about customer preferences. Each collection is designed to appeal to a wide age range. If our sales team observes our customers prefer more covered-up options, we ensure those styles are included. Each collection features various silhouettes, allowing our clients to find something in which they feel their best.

The Evolution of Pamella Roland’s Fashion Brand

LB: You founded your brand in 2002. At the time, what inspired you to launch your own label, which indeed specializes in social and red carpet dressing, and how has that idea evolved for you over the past 23 years, especially as socializing and red carpets both have evolved in major ways?

PR: I used to love watching my mother prepare for special events, which sparked my passion for fashion. This, along with my love for modern art, inspired me to start my own line. Initially we focused on ready-to-wear pieces, including some evening options. However, over time, our clients expressed greater interest in our evening wear styles, prompting us to pivot our focus entirely. We continue to cherish the timeless allure of classic Hollywood glamour while simultaneously embracing innovation and experimentation in our designs. Notably, we’ve observed a significant increase in requests for separates and more streamlined silhouettes, which are prominently featured in our latest collection.

LB: As a woman who owns her own business, what advice would you give today, having learned many lessons, to women of every age who wish to launch their own businesses, either in fashion or another industry?

PR: Always ensure your voice is heard. If you aspire to start a business, it’s crucial to express your ideas directly. While listening to others is valuable, it’s essential to keep your final goals and intentions unwavering. Above all, love what you do. Starting a business from scratch involves long hours, hard work, and numerous personal and professional sacrifices.

Creating Fashion for The Devil Wears Prada Musical

LB: I also would love to discuss your designs for the musical version of The Devil Wears Prada. What can you tell me about collaborating on glamorous, high-style looks with Vanessa Williams, and what were the challenges of balancing couture-level style with creating pieces that had to endure the rigors of nightly wear?

PR: Designing costumes for The Devil Wears Prada musical taught us a lot about stage wear. We needed to create looks which exemplified the desired glamour while allowing for quick changes. For instance, our red silk blouse design for Vanessa appears to be a traditional blouse worn with a black skirt and belt. However, we constructed it as a dress featuring a long zipper that connects the three components for easy changes. Although glamour and ease are not typically associated with one another, we’ve ensured our designs are straightforward and comfortable for the wearer.

Pamella Roland’s Oscars Night Ritual

LB: Finally, what’s your routine for Oscar night? A glamorous watch party, or lounging pajamas with a glass of champagne on a comfortable couch, watching the frenzy of high-wattage arrivals like the rest of us?

PR: Watching the red carpet with my family and friends is always exciting. It’s thrilling to see which designs ultimately make it to the Oscars. Over the years, we’ve had numerous surprises and last-minute confirmations, but witnessing our creations gracing the red carpet remains an unforgettable experience.